Liste de nos voies à Indian Creek

Jour 1: Secteur Technicolor

  • Nr.26 (5.9): Short, varied and doable without a big rack of friends. Onsight
  • Nr. 24 (5.10): Varied start to a lot of BD3 with a cruxy little roof. 1 try on lead and then send on toprope.
  • Nr. 25 (12-): No succes for the ringlock jams at the start but laybacking worked well. Varied and easier climbing towards the top. Toprope.

Jour 2: Secteur Donnelly Canyon et secteur Supercrack

  • Binous Crack (5.8+): Short but sustained corner and hard for a warm-up.
  • Gorilla (5.10): Long and sustainded BD3 crack with cruxy bigger pods. Nice corner with double crack to the top. One unseccesful toprope go and send on toprope afterwards. Much harder for Estelles handsize.
  • 3AM Crack (5.10): Perfect hancrack for Michel. 2 minutes for the toprope send.
  • Wild works on fire (5.10): Great handcrack with some face holds. Toprope.
  • Incredible Hand Crack (5.10): Infamous handcrack with a cruxy overhanging section. Toprope.
  • Coyne Crack (5.11d): A striking thin hands splitter. So hard for Michel, no chance. Only one rest for Estelle on toprope.
  • Super Crack (5.10): Good fight to get the Onsight at the end of the day for Michel. Perfect splitter that gets a bit boring quiet quickly.

Jour 3: Secteur Donnelly Canyon et Secteur Battle of the Bulge

  • Chocolate Corner (5.9): Mostly thin hands corner. Felt harder than a lot of the 5.10s. OS
  • ? (5.8): Very short and easy hand crack.
  • Generic Crack (5.10-): Another super classic. No problems on a quick toprope lap. Mostly good hand jams with some harder pods.
  • Cave Route (5.10+): Thin hands corner in a very special location. Good fight on the OS go but no luck. Toprope send on 2nd go.
  • Crack attack (5.11-): Long and so varied. One of the best. Toprope.

Jour 4: Repos

Jour 5: Secteur Cat Wall

  • Tomcat (5.10): Some wider sections with good feet lead to a long corner hand crack. Onsight.
  • Cat got your tongue (5.10): Face climbing, a short squeeze passage and then hand crack. Onsight.
  • Trip to the Vet (5.10+): Crack of varied size with face holds. Toprope.
  • More than one way (5.10+): Some layback moves then crack from hands to fist. Toprope.
  • 9 Lives (5.11): One of the longest and best of the trip. Spectacular moves to get to the 2nd crack towards the top.
  • Deseret Moon (5.10+): Chossy start to akward corner to handcrack. Toprope.

Jour 6: Secteur Scarface

  • Wavy Gravy (10-): Good corner handcrack with two hard overhanging sections. Onsight.
  • Scarface (11-): The thin hands to good hands classic. Onsight for Michel thanks to a lot of thin hands progres and Estelle was close to sending as well.
  • Where’s Carruthers (5.10): Wide akward pod to start with. Good han crack to fist crack afterwards. Onsight.
  • Vienna (5.10): Thin hands crack. Onsight.
  • Black Uhuru (5.10+): Sustained layback corner. Very good and pumpy. Onsight.

Jour 7: Secteur Nuclear Wall

  • Manifesto (5.9): Thin hands and larger section towards belay. Not easy. Onsight.
  • On the rocks (5.10): Thin hands corner but rather short and off-vertical. Onsight.
  • Sinbad was a dog (5.11): Long and impressive looking slightly diagonal crack. Wide start and then a long section of BD3 and a little bit of BD4 before it narrows down to BD2 only at the end. Toprope.
  • Nr. 5 (5.11): Cool corner fingercrack. BD.4 and BD.5 all the way. A lot of good feet make the otherwise uncomfortable BD.5 jams quiet enjoyable. Onsight.
  • Nuclear Fingers (5.11-): Shot finger crack, to thin hands move to face climb. Sent on 2d go.
  • Fision Quest (5.10): Corner crack with some sand in it. The only not so good climb of our entire indian creek trip. Toprope.

Jour 8: Repos

Jour 9: Secteur Optimator Wall

  • Brodie Machine (5.9): Short varied crack with face features. Lead
  • Neat (5.10): Great corner hand crack with interesting start. Onsight.
  • Annunaki (5.11+): One of the best looking lines. Zigzaging and for once slightly overhanging crack with some face moves towards the end. Send on 2nd go for Michel and Estelle.
  • Casey’s Route (5.10+): Mostly thin hands with some intersting black varnish on the rock. Fall at the crux (som dodgy rock on the right).
  • Hayutake (5.10+): Spicy start with traverse to the rightl before a long and enjoyable crack. Onsight.

Jour 10: Secteur Cat Wall

  • Child Abuse (5.10)
  • Puma (5.11+): Nice sequency finger crack with some wider parts for hand jams and rests. 1 Lead try, 1 toprope send and finally send on lead for both Estelle and Michel
  • Kool Cat (5.11): Long and hard layback corner. Very steep and unforgiving until the very end.

Propulsé par WordPress.com.

Retour en haut ↑

%d blogueurs aiment cette page :